Cyprus - Tucked away in the top right hand corner of the Mediterranean, is so close to Europe, Asia and Africa that it rightly claims to be a stepping stone to three continents.An island whose rich, dramatic history can traced back over nine thousand years, an island so coveted over the centuries, that it has been invaded and claimed by a fascinating mixture of civilizations from near and far, all of which have left their culture and shaped its character.
An island whose archaeology stems from the Neolithic Age, the Ancient Greeks and the Roman period, where churches and monasteries still stand from Byzantine times, castles and palaces from the days of Crusaders and Frankish Lusignans and splendid city walls from Venetian days.
An island chosen by the mythical gods and goddesses of Ancient Greece, who indulged themselves here in sport, pleasure and tragedy, where Aphrodite, goddess of love and beauty emerged from the Paphos foam to become a famous cult figure - center of attraction for the first visitors who flocked to the island to worship her.
With such an exotic historic and legendary background it is hardly surprising that Cyprus has developed a character which is quite unique. It is blessed with beauty - natural beauty that ranges from golden beaches and rugged coastlines, to rolling hills and forest clad mountains, dotted with picturesque villages.
The Country:
The third largest island in Mediterranean, Cyprus stretches 150 miles (240 km) from the west coast to its easternmost trip and 60 miles (96 km) from north to south.
Two imposing mountain ranges act as a dramatic back cloth to the sweeping central
Mesaoria plain.
There are six major towns, Nicosia -the capital- situated inland in the middle of the
Mesaoria plain, and the 5 coastal towns of Limassol, Larnaca, Paphos, Kyrenia and
Famagusta. The later two, in the North and East respectively, have been under
Turkish occupation since 1974 and are inaccessible to visitors.
Cyprus landscape is one of infinite contrasts, from its fertile central plain to the cool,
vine-clad foothills, the majesty of the cedar valley in which wild indigenous secluded
beaches to seek out and hundreds of villages to explore, each with its own tradition
and charm.
Our tiny island has a turbulent history, here is a brief outline of the main events:
5800-3000 BC
Neolithic Age. Remains of the oldest know settlement in Cyprus dating from this
period can be seen at Khirokitia between Nicosia and Limassol.
3000-1000 BC
Copper discovered, flourishing export trade built up with the Near East and the
Aegean. Wealth and culture of Cyprus attracted trade from the Achaeans who
finally settled in Cyprus and Hellenised the island.
500-350 BC
Succession of invasions by Assyrians, Egyptians, Persians, Cyprus liberated from the
latter King Evagoras, although he had to yield to them later.
333 BC
Alexander the Great destroyed the might of Persia and took Cyprus under his mantle.
323 BC
Alexander the Great died, Cyprus ruled by Vineroys of Ptolemy I of Egypt and his
successors. Capital transferred from Salamis to Paphos.
58 BC
Roman invasion, Cyprus administered by Cicero but later given by Julius Caesar to
Ptolemy and Arsinoe of Egypt and then by Anthony to Cleopatra.
22 BC
Government effected by a Proconsul who was directly responsible to Rome.
45 AD
Apostles Paul and Barnabas arrived in Cyprus to spread the Christian doctrine and
succeeded in converting the Proconsul, Sergius Paulus, to Christianity at Paphos.
Cyprus then became the first country to be governed by a Christian.
116 AD
A general revolt by the Jews against Roman power and the spread of Christianity
included Cyprus where thousands of Cypriots and Jews were killed. As a result
further settlement of Jews in Cyprus was forbidden.
395 AD
After the partition of the Roman Empire between the two sons of Emperor Theodosius
Cyprus came under the Byzantine Empire with its capital in Constantinople. Many
churches, decorated with beautiful mosaics and frescoes, were built under Byzanine
rule.
7-10 CENTURIES AD
Chiefly notable for continuous Arab raids on the island during which great
destruction was caused especially to churches and ecclesiastic art. Castles of
Kyrenia and Saranta kolonees at Paphos built.
1191 AD
Cyprus was conquered by Richard the Lionheart of England on his way to the Holy
Land. In 1192 he sold Cyprus to the Lusignans from France, who established a
feudal kingdom.
1489 AD
Princess Caterina Cornaro - the last Lusignan Queen, was forced to pass on her
monarchical rights to the Republic of Venice. The Venetian constructed impressive
defensive walls around the towns of Nicosia and Famagusta and renovated the castles
of Kyrenia, Limassol and Paphos. However, Turkish forces were still able to capture
the island when they besieged and conquered Nicosia and Famagusta.
1571 - 1878
Turkish rule begins and continues till 1878 when Turkey ceded Cyprus to Britain
in exchange of Military aid.
1878 - 1960
Cyprus under British rule.
1960
Cyprus gains independence, with Turkey, Greece and Britain as Guarantor Powers
of her independence. Archbishop Makarios III becomes the first president of Cyprus.
1963
It had become obvious that the Constitution of 1960 was unworkable. However, when
amendments were proposed the Turkish Cypriot community rebelled. Turkish
ministers withdrew from the Government and Turkish public servants abstained from
work.
JULY - AUGUST 1974
A military coup was staged by the Greek Junta and President Makarios was
overthrown. Turkey, as "guarantor power" of Cyprus independence used this as
a pretext to launch an invasion of Cyprus. Turkey finally occupied 38% of the island's
territory. About 6.000 people were killed and 200.000 people - 40% of the total Greek
population- were expelled from their homes. 1619 persons still missing.
The international community condemned the invasion and occupation by Turkey and
called for the withdrawal of all foreign troops and settlers.
1977 August 3rd
His Beatitude, Archbishop Makarios III died after a hard attack.
The leader of the House of Representatives Mr. Spyros Kyprianou, assumed the duty
of President of Cyprus. He was later confirmed in his office in an unopposed
presidential election and re-elected for a further term of five years in 1983.
1992
Cyprus is full member of the United Nations, of the council of Europe and of the
Commonwealth. In spite of repeated UN resolutions calling for the withdrawl of
foreign troops, the Turkish army remains entrenched in the northern part of the
island.
2004
Cyprus is full member of E.U.
The towns
NICOSIA - ONE OF A KIND
Without a doubt, the 1000-year-old capital should be on every visitor's agenda. It lies roughly in the center of the island; within easy reach of the other towns and a day in Nicosia will be a day well spent.
The old walled city is unique and definitely the place to head for first. Encircled by strong fortunes walls built by the Venetian in the 16th century, the enchanting old city is scattered with buildings and monuments of historical interest as well as little shops, cafes and taverns. The Nicosia jewelry museum and the municipal arts center are both well worth a visit. The Leventeion municipal museum of Nicosia, with an imaginative presentation of the capital's history, was awarded the title 1991 European Museum of the year.
To walk through the old city is to step backwards in time. Narrow streets and old houses with ornate balcony just from weather beaten sand stone walls, and craftsmen in small workshops practice traders unchanged for centuries. Laiki Yitonia- Folk Neighborhood-
Is pedestrian section, which has been carefully renovated to evoke the atmosphere of past days. The two main streets of old Lefkosia, Lidra and Onasagorou, are lined with shops of every type and both streets are pedestrian only.
Not to be missed, is the unique Cyprus museum, housing the islands most important collection of Cypriot antiquities and treasures from the Neolithic age to the Roman period, In contrast to these ancient finds is the state collection of contemporary Art, and on the other side of town, just off the main Lemesos road, is the Cyprus handicraft center.
Another award winner is the city's renovated "Pyli Ammochostou"-Famagusta Gate- one of the original entrances to the old city, which won the Europa Nostra award for its restoration. Many old churches are to be found in this part of town, and other places of interest are the folk art & Byzantine museums, the Archbishopric, the Cathedral of Agios Ioannis with its beautiful frescoes, the national struggle museum and the intriguing house of Chatzegeorgakis Kornesios-a fine example of 18th century architecture-which houses the Ethnological museum.
Not far from these monuments is the infamous "Greek Line" that divides the republic from the illegally occupied area to the north. It has been in existence since 1974 when Turkish troops invaded the island and claimed 37% of northern Cyprus as a breakaway pseudo-state has since been recognized by no nation, other than Turkey.
The modern city that has developed outside the walls is a cosmopolitan center of business and culture. Lefkosia is regarded as the shopping heart of Cyprus, with a variety of restaurants, discos and bars.
Within easy reach of the capital are such historic gems as the 12th century painted church of Asinou, the regal tombs at Tamassos, the ancient city-kingdom of Idalion and the enchanting villages of Fikardou and Kakopetria
LIMASSOL - HEART OF THE VINE COUNTRY
Combining its roles as the second largest city, the island's main port, the center of the wine industry and a bustling holiday resort, Limassol emerges as a spirited and cosmopolitan seaside town.
Limassol is a lively town largely due to the character of Lemesolians, a fun-loving lot. No wonder it holds the island's two top festivals, the pre-Lenten Carnival with fancy dress balls, parades and festivities and the wine festival in September, a wine extravaganza where wine flows freely for everyone to enjoy, courtesy of the local wineries.
Limassol emerged out of two of the most important ancient city-kingdoms, Amathus, to the east of the town, and kourion to the west, both of which are being extensively excavated. The magnificent setting of the ancient Kourion Theatre is used for summer concerts and theatrical productions.
In the Middle Ages, Limassol hosted the marriage of Richard the Lionhearted with Berengaria of Navarre whom he crowned Queen of England. Thereafter the crusaders made their headquarters at the square keep west of the city, known as Colossi medieval Castle, where they fostered the making of wines, particularly the sweet dessert wine "Commandaria" the oldest named wine in the world.
Today Limassol is a resort with a ten-mile coastline, a busy shopping center, countless taverns and restaurants and nightlife to suit tastes ranging from modest sophisticated.
A visit to the places of interest would include Limassol castle, which houses the Cyprus Mediaeval museum, the Folk art museum, the Limassol municipal art gallery and the municipal gardens.
Also in the vicinity are the placid Germasoyeia dam, frequented by keen anglers, and the salt lake at Akrotiri, home of thousands of migrating birds in winter, and a stopover point for millions more as they wend their way to different climes in spring and autumn. In nearby foothills, delightful villages continue the gentle pace of rural life.
LARNACA - HOME OF AGIOS LAZAROS
Larnaca seafront is vaguely reminiscent of the continental promenade, with its line of mature palms and its languid air of sleepy charm. Cafes and taverns line the area near the sea, making this popular spot with visitors and Cypriots alike during the long summer. Nearby is the marina, frequented by yachtsmen from all over the world.
At the western end of promenade is the town's 17th century fort, which now houses the Larnaca Medieval Museum.
As the home of the island's main international airport, Larnaca offers many visitors their first taste of Cyprus. One of the first sights is the beautiful salt lake, home in the cooler months to colonies of graceful flamingos and other migratory birds. Beside the lake, in a tranquil setting crowned by lush palms, is the Hala Sultan Tekke, built to the memory of Prophet Mohammed's aunt.
Larnaka's links with Christianity go back to the very beginning, for the town's first bishop was none other than Ayios Lazarus, who chose to live his second life there after
Jesus had raised him from the dead. A church built in his name exists on the spot where his remains where said to be found.
Larnaka's district archaeological museum and Pierides foundation museum exhibit particularly interesting antiquities. The town's marble bust of Zeno, after the Philosopher who founded the famous Stoic school, bears testimony to another famous son. Also of interest is the church of Ayia Faneromeni, built over a rock cave dating from the 8th century BC, and the 18th century aqueduct on the outskirts of town.
Stavrovouni, one of the oldest and most dramatically sited monasteries in Cyprus, founded by Saint Helena, is with in reach of Larnaca. Perched atop a mountain it has stunning views in all directions. In accordance with the strict monastic tradition observed by this particular order, women are not allowed inside Stavrovouni monastery.
Again within striking distance of Larnaca is the church of Panayia Angeloktisti, which houses the 6th century life-size Byzantine mosaic of the Virgin Mary-one of the finest in the world from this period. A visit to the village of Lefcara, famed for the lace-like embroidery known as "Lefcaritika" that was said to captivate Leonard DA Vinci, is also a treat. Further south, is the remarkable site of Chirokitia, where excavations have yielded one of the most important Neolithic settlements found anywhere in the world.
PAFOS - PLAYGROUND OF THE GODS
Capital of the west and positively teeming with history is Pafos, site of the island's second international airport. The resort town has as its focal point a charming fishing harbour by Pafos Fort, lined with open-air cafes and tavernas that serve a tempting menu of the day's catch.
It was on Pafos shoreline that the mythological Goddess Aphrodite was born a legend that spawned a massive wave of cult worship from neighboring countries that lasted several centuries. The large rock that just from the sea is known as "Petra tou Romiou" - The Venus Rock - while the Bath of Afrodite at Polis also echoes her apparent penchant for the island. At Palaepafos, Kouklia lie the remains of the Goddess' earliest Sanctuary.
Another "first" for Pafos was its early recognition of Christianity. While under Roman rule in 45 A.D., it was here that Saint Paul converted the first ruler to the faith.
The legacy from its remarkable history adds up to nothing less than an open museums, so much so that UNESCO simply added the whole town to its World Cultural Heritage List. Among the treasures unearthed, are the remarkable mosaics in the Houses of Dionysos, Theseus and Aion, beautifully preserved after 16 centuries under the soil. Then there are the mysterious vaults and caves, the Tombs of the Kings, the Pillar to which Saint Paul was allegedly tied and whipped, the ancient Odeon Theatre and other places of interest including the Byzantine Museum and the District Archeological Museum.
Geroskipou with its remarkable five-domed Byzantine church of Agia Paraskevi, and its Folk Art Museum is a village known for its special delight "loukoumi".
Agios Neofytos Monastery, famous for its "Encleistra", Enclosure, carved out of the mountain by the hermit himself, boasts some of the finest Byzantine frescoes of the 12th and 15th centuries. Chrysorrogiatissa Monastery makes its own range of wines using homegrown grapes. A small museum dedicated to Archbishop Makarios, first president of Cyprus, is found at Pano Panagia. From here it is a rewarding drive to the majestic Cedar Valley, home of the indigenous Cyprus horned sheep, the moufflon.
Lempa village can be singled out as one with particular historic significance. In its pretty setting near the sea, Lempa's link with prehistory is the site of a chalcolithic settlement. Today the faithful reconstruction of several dwellings, gives an insight into chalcolithic life on the island.
Further North lies the resort-town of Polis, overlooking the beautiful Chrysochou Bay with its charming fishing refuge of Latsi. The relatively unspoilt state of the countryside and villages make the area a real delight for the walker and naturalist.
The low-lying scenery around Pafos, much of it cultivated banana plantations and backed by the gentle foothills of the western Troodos range, has an attractively open quality to it. This is the gateway to the Peninsula of Akamas, a natural wilderness of incredible beauty with breathtaking gorges, spectacular coastlines and enjoyable nature trails.
AMMOCHOSTOS AREA (Famagusta)
The golden beaches
With its superb golden sandy beaches, this area has become a big draw for sunseekers.
But this part of the island traditionally remains the market garden of Cyprus, with the well-known Cyprus potato being the prominent crop.
Agia Napa, once a small fishing village, boasts a superb Venetian period decorated monastery with a central octagonal fountain. It lends character and substance to a village that's better known to holidaymakers for its colorful shops, tavernas, discos and bars. A small Marine Life Meuseum presents exhibits of past and present marina fauna. The focal point of the resort is the small harbour, where the tavernas specialise in fresh fish harvested by the colorful fishing vessels.
Life in the south eastern corner mostly revolves around the sea, and water sports of all kinds are enjoyed - from scuba diving to paragliding.
Protaras has built up a deserving reputation for its windmills and glorious beaches. The small, white-washed town of Paralimni, slightly inland, has a number of open-air, unspoilt tavernas known for their delicious local cuisine.
Cape Greko, on the very tip, has its own share of beaches and coves. With its contrasting rugged countryside, the dramatic fiery glow of sunsets from this spot have to be seen to be believed.
Small churches dating from the 13th and 16th centuries are found in Sotira and in nearby villages. The skilful craft of basket-making still carries on at Liopetri. The fishing shelter at Potamos Liopetriou, just east of the village of Xylofagou, is a photogenic inlet where fishermen mend their nets by day, before setting sail in the evening to farm the sea.
The mountains
MAJESTIC TROODOS
Nothing could be more dramatically different from Mediterranean beach life, than the impressive mountain range that stretches across the centre of Cyprus and reaches up to 1.952 metres at Chionistra, the highest point of Mount Olympos. Admiring panoramic vistas and breathing the cool, pine-scented air makes a heady change from the coast and plains which are only a relatively short drive away.
There's plenty to see in these mountains. Nine of the many Byzantine churches are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List for the exquisite art depicted in their icons, frescoes and architecture. Moufflon have been protected for a number of years in a huge natural reserve in the magnificent Cedar Valley, and nowdays these timid creatures can often be seen by visitors.
There are scenic walks to take, a great variety of interesting birds and flora to be seen, waterfalls and special picnic sites, and above all, there are villages of immeasurable charm to wander round, or simply to dally in and observe the unhurried pace of rustic country life. The mountain villages are absolutely charming and the people friendly and hospitable. Each village has a special crop, craft or product for which it is known - fruits such as cherries, apples or peaches, sweet specialities like soujouko and palouze, wines, zivania - a highly alcoholic vine product, rosewater, pottery…the list is endless.
A stay in the mountains is definitely recommended. There you will enjoy the morning mist on the mountain peaks, cool air and breathtaking views that makes staying at one of the "hillside" hotels a welcome break.
The higher slopes are thronged with sports enthusiastic throughout the year, so much for skiing as for hiking along the nature trails, which have clearly marked environmental features of interest.
A number of interesting monasteries are scattered in the Troodos range. The largest and most famous is Kykko Monastery, with a golden icon of the Virgin Mary, allegedly painted by Saint Luke. Other monasteries worth visiting are Machairas and Trooditissa with its distinctive steeply sloped roof.
